My cutting (or cheese) boards are made from a variety of hardwoods like Cherry, Maple, Hickory, Poplar and others, although, no Oak as Oak has what is called “open grain” growth and tends to hold bacteria. A recent study shows, contrary to popular conception, that wood cutting boards combat bacteria far better than plastic boards. These are constructed with food-safe glue and finished with mineral oil.
I keep cutting boards of various sizes here at the house but I would be happy to make a custom one to your specifications guarantee them for everything other than ordinary wear and tear. Once your board begins to show appreciable wear, I will resurface for free.
Your board is made from more than one type of hardwood, alternating strips of Cherry, Hickory, Maple and Poplar.
With variances in local humidity, it’s possible over time that the woods will shrink at different speeds, showing small differences in height between the strips. A light sanding with 150 then 220 sandpaper with a flat block of wood or 3M sanding block. For a more formal correction, a local woodshop can run it through their drum sander for $5 or so.
Also, after some years of service, if you want to refresh the surface, remove the feet and take to your local woodshop and have them run it through their planer, then their drum sander and you will have a perfect surface again. They shouldn’t charge too much for either. I also would be happy to do that for free.
I have cured the board with generic mineral oil on all sides. This is something you should do every month or two. There are more expensive cutting board oils, but generic mineral oil works great, just make sure you do all sides. This will minimize potential warping.
These boards should give decades of service, just don’t use them as chopping blocks and don’t run them through the dishwasher. As the surface begins to get rougher, occasionally apply bleach for a few moments and rinse.